MMasters in Business
← All episodes
Fern Mallis07 February 2019

Fern Mallis Discusses the Fashion Industry (Podcast)

2Frameworks
11Insights

Listen

Frameworks in this episode

Insights & moments

The myth-busts, hot takes, explainers, and tools worth keeping.

Myth Buster· 1

Myth Buster27:43

Outlet Stores Do Not Always Sell Main-Line Bargains

Outlet centers are viable destination businesses, but their merchandise is not simply the current collection at a discount. Stock can include past seasons as well as separate lower-priced lines manufactured specifically for outlet locations.

  • Outlet centers replicate branded retail environments
  • Much of the merchandise comes from past seasons
  • Brands may manufacture separate outlet-only product lines
  • Tourism marketing drives substantial destination traffic

“But it's not the same merchandise that you can find in the current lines.”

Fern Mallis · 28:06

“in many cases there's separate business companies make stuff for that lit stores, they make other lines that you can't even buy anywhere else that…”

Fern Mallis · 28:13
#outlets#retail#pricing#tourism

Hot Take· 1

Hot Take29:30

Purpose Gives Brands an Edge in a Cluttered Market

Mallis argues that consumers increasingly respond to brands that express a moral purpose, support causes, and contribute beyond selling products. The discussion uses Nike and Gillette to show how a clear position can generate emotional attachment and break through saturated media.

  • Brand names alone do not resonate equally with everyone
  • Consumers seek reasons to feel attached to companies
  • Values-based campaigns can strengthen affinity
  • Controversy can create attention in a cluttered advertising environment

“what seems to be resonating more with people now are brands and companies that stand for something and give back and have a moral purpose…”

Fern Mallis · 30:48

“Everything is so saturated and cluttered. To break through is not easy to do.”

Barry Ritholtz · 34:21
#branding#purpose#advertising#marketing

Explainer· 4

Explainer17:47

Who Wins and Loses From Fast Fashion

Fast fashion gives consumers immediate access to inexpensive trends, but its benefits depend on perspective. Designers face copying and quality pressures, while sustainability advocates confront excess production and landfill waste; luxury buyers, however, remain a distinct market.

  • Consumers gain speed, trend access, and low prices
  • Designers face competition from rapid copies
  • Excess production creates environmental costs
  • Fast-fashion and luxury customers are not necessarily interchangeable

“If you're a consumer who wants to buy something really fast and of the moment, and that's really inexpensive, it's a great thing.”

Fern Mallis · 18:02

“People know the difference. The luxury business right now is doing very well.”

Fern Mallis · 18:45
#fast fashion#sustainability#luxury#consumers
Explainer19:25

Why Rental and E-Commerce Became Core Fashion Channels

Mallis characterizes rental as a significant, sustainable business because customers can access clothing without keeping it in their closets. She also argues that e-commerce is no longer peripheral: luxury brands participate through their own sites or large digital marketplaces.

  • Rental reduces the need for individual ownership
  • Shared use can improve clothing utilization
  • Luxury brands have broadly adopted e-commerce
  • Digital marketplaces aggregate stores and labels

“read the rental business period is becoming a big, big business because people it's also sustainable.”

Fern Mallis · 19:43

“the e commerce, the online business is enormous.”

Fern Mallis · 20:22
#rental#ecommerce#sustainability#luxury
Explainer34:44

Fashion Expands Beyond Gender, Season, Size, and Ethnicity

Mallis identifies genderless clothing, seasonless design, expanded sizing, and diverse casting as major industry changes. She presents them as a long-overdue response to the actual composition of fashion's customers and the wider world.

  • Genderless designs are becoming more common
  • Textile technology enables seasonless clothing
  • Designers are expanding into plus sizes
  • Runways increasingly feature broader ethnic representation
  • Customers and media are pressuring brands to reflect reality

“I mean, that's who the customer is, that's who the world is.”

Fern Mallis · 37:11

“come on, let's reflect what's happening in the world.”

Fern Mallis · 37:31
#inclusivity#genderless fashion#plus size#diversity
Explainer37:59

Fashion Shows Now Generate Both Spectacle and Demand Data

Fashion Week remains a way to present a designer's complete vision, but social media has changed how shows are consumed and justified. Images create enormous reach, and engagement data can reveal which looks deserve marketing support or larger production runs.

  • Shows generate large volumes of social content
  • Attendees often experience the runway through their phones
  • Brands design visual moments specifically for sharing
  • Engagement can signal which looks have commercial momentum
  • The runway still communicates a head-to-toe creative point of view

“But it still is a vehicle that generates millions of Instagram moments, you know.”

Fern Mallis · 38:30

“This is what we should get behind, you know, and this is something we should maybe you know, do a bigger production run on”

Fern Mallis · 41:33
#fashion week#social media#data#influencers

Story· 3

Story01:25

How Fern Mallis Turned Industry Curiosity Into a Career

Mallis grew up around New York's garment district and absorbed the industry through family exposure, school jobs, and observation. Winning a Mademoiselle guest-editor competition led to a full-time role and a career spanning publishing, retail, public relations, and design institutions.

  • Her father and uncles worked in scarves, textiles, and sportswear
  • She spent school breaks observing the garment district
  • A national guest-editor competition opened the door to Condé Nast
  • Early roles exposed her to marketing, merchandising, retail, and design

“I learned, and I watched, and I loved it, and I loved clothing.”

Fern Mallis · 02:06

“I was the only one of my twenty in that group that was asked to stay on at the magazine with a full time job.”

Fern Mallis · 03:52
#career#fashion industry#mentorship#publishing
Story05:33

The Realization That Her Network Was a Business Asset

Mallis noticed that people repeatedly approached her for information, introductions, and sourcing help. She recognized that this informal role had commercial value and used it as the basis for launching a public-relations firm.

  • Colleagues treated her as a central source of information
  • Frequent requests revealed unmet demand
  • She converted relationship capital into a paid service
  • Her client base expanded from fashion into architecture and interiors

“I realized I could get paid for that information.”

Fern Mallis · 05:50
#entrepreneurship#networking#public relations
Story48:40

How a Cup of Coffee Became the Fashion Icons Series

After leaving IMG Fashion, Mallis was introduced to the 92nd Street Y during what she calls the coffee phase of her life. A conversation about the institution's intermittent fashion programming led to a recurring interview series featuring leading designers and industry figures.

  • The concept emerged during Mallis's career break
  • The 92nd Street Y wanted a coherent fashion series
  • Norma Kamali and Calvin Klein were early guests
  • The series grew into dozens of long-form career interviews
  • Mallis focuses on how creative figures built their businesses

“We named it Fashion Icons with Fern Malice”

Fern Mallis · 51:33

“I'm fascinated, how do you build a billion dollar business?”

Fern Mallis · 54:50
#fashion icons#interviews#92y#career stories

Takeaway· 2

Takeaway43:07

Models Can Build an Audience Before the Industry Approves Them

Social platforms allow models and other professionals to tell their stories and attract audiences without waiting for traditional gatekeepers. Follower counts now influence casting and commercial decisions, making online marketing skill a career advantage.

  • Models may be booked partly because of follower counts
  • Individuals can build their own distribution platforms
  • Traditional magazine covers are no longer the only route to recognition
  • Digital marketing capability benefits careers across industries

“models are hired and booked for shows based on how many Instagram followers they have.”

Fern Mallis · 43:07

“You know, models have tell their story without you don't have to wait for them to be on fifteen Vogue covers to have a career.”

Fern Mallis · 43:19
#personal brand#models#instagram#careers
Takeaway1:01:33

Fern Mallis's Career Advice: Listen More and Learn the Numbers

Mallis advises aspiring fashion professionals to absorb everything around them and resist assuming they already have the answers. Looking back, she also wishes she had developed stronger financial and business fluency rather than leaving the numbers to others.

  • Approach a new industry like a sponge
  • Listen before asserting expertise
  • Creative professionals still need financial literacy
  • Understand the financial implications of every project

“become a sponge, just absorbital and just shut up a little bit and listen, you know, just listen.”

Fern Mallis · 1:01:40

“I think that's important to always have an understanding and a grip on the financial implications inside of everything you're working on.”

Fern Mallis · 1:02:44
#career advice#learning#finance#fashion careers